Estrella is a new Sunset Strip hot spot that plays up the neighborhood's musical past as much as possible. The entire space is done up like a boho-chic Laurel Canyon abode circa late 1960s, early 1970s, when crooners like Joni Mitchell and Mama Cass from the Mamas & the Papas lived in the hills. The patio is lined with fabric booths, lots of pillows, succulent-filled planters and macrame wall hangings. On the cocktail menu, there are things like the Dream On, a shout-out to early Aerosmith, and a drink named for Mitchell herself. In the kitchen, chef Dakota Weiss looks to her own California lifestyle for inspiration for the breakfast, lunch, dinner and brunch menus. It mostly means she keeps things seasonal, fun and a little bold with the embellishments on classic dishes.

For breakfast, which would seem like a shoo-in for the IAC offices upstairs, there are fresh-baked pastries; egg-white wraps with quinoa and spinach; and orange ricotta pancakes. At lunch, which starts full-service soon, there's asparagus and crab cheesecake with an almond crust; truffle-honey grilled cheese; and an Angus beef cheeseburger. Brunch turned heads early, mostly for the amazing patio and The Rolling Stone, a whole bacon-wrapped avocado stuffed with a poached egg. You'll find riffs on guacamole made with artichoke hearts and Boursin cheese; silky duck liver butter topped with huckleberry jam; and roasted bone marrow with kabocha squash spaetzle for dinner. One of the more straightforward dishes turns out to be the best: A plate of tempura-fried chicken smothered in a sweet honey glaze. Just like music with the most soul, classics will always surpass the overdubbed.

Estrella opens at 7 AM, Monday through Friday, with lunch from 11 AM to 5 PM, and dinner starting at 5:30 PM. On Saturdays and Sundays, brunch is served from 10 AM to 3 PM, with dinner beginning at 5:30 PM.

8800 Sunset Blvd.; 310-652-6613